logo

Climbing

Nepal: Climbed to 8000m, south col on Everest, with Michael Graber and Peter Hillary, 2002.

Patagonia: West face of Cerro Torre with Charlie Fowler, 2000. Monzino route on the North Tower of Paine with Doug Byerly, 1996.

Pakistan: Great Trango Tower, Selters route with Michael Graber, 1999.

Peru: East Ridge of Rinrihirca, Pisco South face, and Taulliraju attempt with Topher Donahue, 1997.

Kyrgyzstan: Four first one-day ascents with Doug Byerly: 4810 South face, Peristroka Crack on the Russian Tower, 4520 French route, Alperion route on Asan, 1996.

Chamonix: the North Face of Les Droites, Central Pillar of Freney, Grand Capucin, American Direct on Les Dru, the Cecinal-Nominay route on the Grande Pillar D’angle, Mt Blanc, with Randy Rackliff, 1989.

Yosemite: Nose of El Cap four times, fastest time 9 hours with Tate Reese, 2000. Salathe wall three times, 15 hours fastest time with Kevin Fosburg, 1993. Lurking Fear 12 hours with Brian McCray, 1997. Wall of Early Morning Light with John Allen and James Garrett, 1993. Pacific Ocean Wall with Roxanna Brock, 1998. Northwest Face of Half Dome, 8 hours with Bobbi Bensman. Zodiac. Astroman over 6 times, flashed in 1984 at 17 years old. West Face of El Cap, Rostrum, Crucifix, Power Point, Couinard-Herbert, Hotline.

New Hampshire: First ascent of Liquid Sky 5.13b, the first 5.13 in New England, 1986. First free ascents of Solstice 5.12d, Cerberus 5.12d, Armageddon 5.12r/x, Mordor wall 5.12 1985–86. All of the classic hard ice routes that form regularly, including Remission 5+, Repentance 5, Omega 5+, Way in the Wilderness 5+, Called on account of Rains 5+, Mindbender 5+, Last Gentleman 5.

Colorado: Psyco 5.12d, Genesis 5.12d, Perilous Journey 5.11x 1985. The Diamond on Longs Peak: Yellow wall, D-1, Pervertical Sanctuary, Ariana, King of Swords second ascent 1986. The Black Canyon: Stoned Oven, Air Voyage.
Rifle: First ascents of Cracked Open Sky 5.13d 1993, Roadside Prophet 5.13d, Sometimes Always 5.13. Hardest route flashed: Bong Thirty 5.13a. Telluride ice: Bridalveil Falls 5+ and Ames Ice Hose 5+ in a day.

Hueco Tanks: 2nd ascent of Tarts of Horsham 5.12d 1986, Full Service V10. Traverses into Dead Legends & Mr. Serious V10 1994.

Canadian Rockies: Polar Circus 5+, Ice Nine 5+.

Download a PDF of Jim Surette’s biography and credits.